Little Comforts of Autumn: Make a Cottagecore Gratitude Card Garland
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A cup of tea, a basket of apples, bread on the kitchen table. Sometimes the smallest pictures hold the things we love most about autumn.
This little Cottagecore Comforts gratitude garland brings five of those moments to a shelf edge. We’re clipping our fall journalling cards to jute twine, adding two gingham bows, and giving each card an ivory lined back for a memory worth keeping.
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A beautiful digital bookmark can become so much more than a place to hold your page. For this project, I am using the Scottish Highlands fall bookmarks to turn a clear paper-insert pen into a tiny piece of autumn artwork. Golden skies, heather, castles and Highland stags look lovely wrapped around the barrel, and the clear outer casing gives the paper a polished finish.
This is an easy project to make alongside a matching bookmark or reading journal. Once you have worked out the fit for your particular pens, you can prepare several inserts from the same sheet.
Browse bulk paper-insert pen options on Amazon.ca (affiliate shopping search). Check the listing photographs and assembly details before buying: you need a pen that opens to accept a paper wrap around an inner cylinder, with a clear outer shell and a clip. This is a shopping search, rather than a recommendation for a tested pack. Ordinary transparent pens, beadable pens and opaque sublimation blanks may not have the space needed for this project.
Follow the instructions supplied with your pen to remove the clear outer casing. Lay the parts in order and take a quick photograph so you can put everything back correctly. Keep any small springs and fittings together.
Measure the usable straight section of the inner cylinder, leaving threads, end fittings and moving parts clear. Wrap a scrap of thin paper around it, mark where the edges meet, and trim a rectangle. Test it inside the clear shell. The paper should sit smoothly and the casing should close easily without forcing it.
Our approximate starting size is 1½ inches around the cylinder × 4½ inches along the pen (about 38 × 114 mm). Different pens will need different measurements. Allow yourself a little experimenting to find the correct size, including whether a tiny overlap fits or the edges need to meet without overlapping.
Keep your original download untouched and work from a copy. The Scottish Highlands fall sheet is designed for landscape US Letter paper, 11 × 8½ inches. At that intended page size, the individual bookmarks are approximately 2 inches wide.
For a wrap about 1½ inches wide, start by printing at 75%. The calculation is 1.5 ÷ 2 × 100 = 75%. This reduces both the width and the length proportionally. It does not automatically create an exact 1½ × 4½-inch rectangle: you will still trim the length to fit your pen.
If your printer app does not offer a reliable percentage control, crop a single bookmark from a copy of the sheet and place it in a layout program at 1½ inches wide with its proportions locked. Crop the length to 4½ inches rather than stretching the artwork. Print that prepared layout at 100% / Actual size.
Different pens require experimenting. Seventy-five percent is a starting point for this sheet and this approximate wrap width, not a universal setting. To adjust a test, use: new percentage = current percentage × desired printed width ÷ measured printed width. For example, if a 75% test prints 1.6 inches wide but you need 1.5 inches, try about 70.3%. Recheck the length and the paper thickness as well.
Once the plain-paper template fits, print your artwork on thin paper using the appropriate printer settings. Let the ink dry fully. Cut straight, clean edges and trim away any white border you do not want showing through the casing.
Choose the section of the design before cutting: keep the stag’s face, castle or heather where it will be easiest to see. Remember that some artwork will curve around the back of the pen. Check the design’s direction against the pen tip and clip so it will face the way you want when the pen is held.
Gently curl the printed paper around a smooth pencil or similar rounded tool to encourage a curve without creasing it. Wrap it around the pen’s inner cylinder with the printed side facing out. Position the seam towards the back or beneath the clip when the pen’s construction allows.
Start with a dry fit. Avoid bulky layers of tape or glue, and do not cover the threads, ink mechanism or moving parts. The clear casing should hold the insert in place once everything fits properly.
Slide or refit the clear outer shell carefully, following the pen’s assembly instructions. If the paper catches, bunches or twists, stop and remove it. Trim a sliver, reduce the overlap or try thinner paper, then test again. Do not force the shell closed.
Refit the tip and any other parts, check that the clip sits properly, and test the click or twist mechanism and the writing tip. The paper should remain smooth and clear of the mechanism.
Pair your pen with a full-size bookmark from the same fall sheet and tuck both into a simple paper sleeve. It is a lovely small gift for a reader, journal keeper or someone who enjoys pretty stationery. Save your successful measurements, paper choice and print settings with the pen supplier’s details so the next batch is easier.
Explore the Scottish Highlands Fall Expansion on Etsy, or browse the My Grandma’s Teacups printable collections for another world to bring to your desk. These listings are digital downloads; pens and printed supplies are purchased separately. Check the licence included with your files before selling finished items, and never redistribute the digital artwork.
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Some designs deserve a little time outside the journal. For this project, we’re taking the foliage artwork from the Dark Fantasy Fall Extension and turning it into decorative candle wraps using waterslide decal paper.
Styled with loose grapevine and autumn leaves, the finished candles make a wonderfully moody centrepiece for a bookish table or fall display.
Choose LED pillar candles for this project whenever possible. If you decorate real wax candles, keep them unlit and use them for display only. The decals and clear coat do not make a candle safe to burn.
Check the instructions supplied with your waterslide paper before beginning. Printing, sealing, soaking and drying requirements vary between products. Clear decal paper allows the candle colour to show through; a pale candle helps the artwork remain visible.
Choose a foliage design from the Dark Fantasy Fall Extension papers. Measure the height and circumference of your candle, then size the artwork to fit the area you want to decorate.
A quick test print on ordinary paper is helpful here. Wrap it around the candle to check the placement before using your decal paper.
For LED candles, keep the design clear of switches, battery compartments and other working parts.
Print on the correct side of your waterslide paper using the settings recommended by its manufacturer. Allow the ink to dry.
If your paper requires sealing, apply the recommended clear coat before soaking. Work in a well-ventilated area and follow the spray label’s drying instructions.
Don’t rush this step. An inadequate seal can allow the printed colours to run or the design to break apart in the water. Use the number of coats and drying time specified for your paper and sealer.
Trim the design neatly, removing excess blank space where appropriate.
Place the decal in water for the time recommended by the paper manufacturer. It is ready when the printed film begins to slide gently on its backing. Avoid pulling or forcing it.
Make sure the candle surface is clean and dry.
Hold the decal against the candle and gently slide the backing paper out from beneath it, keeping the printed film supported as you go. Work slowly around the curve.
Use a damp, soft cloth to smooth from the centre towards the edges, easing out trapped water and air. Handle the film gently while it is wet—it can stretch or tear.
For LED candles, keep water away from the battery compartment and electrical components.
Set the candle upright and allow the decal to dry fully according to the paper instructions. Avoid handling the decorated area during this stage.
Only apply an additional finish if the product instructions recommend it and it is compatible with your candle’s surface. Test unfamiliar materials on a small, inconspicuous area first.
Arrange the finished candles on a tray with loose grapevine and a scattering of artificial fall leaves. Let the vines curve naturally around the arrangement for a relaxed woodland feel.
The dark foliage brings a touch of enchanted forest to the table—just right beside a stack of autumn reads.
Use the glow from LED candles only. Decorated wax candles must remain unlit, and the entire arrangement should be kept away from flames and heat.
This is such a lovely way to carry a favourite collection into your seasonal decorating. A paper chosen for a journal can become the detail that ties a whole display together.
Shop the Dark Fantasy Fall Extension on Etsy to find the artwork for this project. This is a digital download; candles and craft supplies are purchased separately. You can also explore all My Grandma’s Teacups printable collections.
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Apparently, building Viola a little potion shop was not enough. Now she needs to come along when I pick up my tablet, too. I can hardly blame her. There are books to read and probably a few recipes she would like to check.
This little project turns printed artwork into a removable paper insert for a clear tablet case. I used the shop background from our Viola project pages, pasted the focal image onto it, then filled the scene with plants and bottles. The clear case holds everything in place and lets the artwork show through.
You do not need to build a miniature cabinet to enjoy this collection. A few printed pieces, a little cutting and a clear case make a lovely smaller project.
Keep the finished insert flat and thin. This is a paper collage that slips behind the clear back, so there is no need for foam tape, raised gems or other bulky embellishments.
Remove the tablet from its case. If the case came with a removable paper insert, use that as your starting shape. Otherwise, make a plain-paper template to fit inside the clear back. Check the corners and the camera opening carefully.
Test the plain template in the empty case, then check the fit with the tablet. It should sit smoothly without forcing the case, covering the camera or interfering with buttons, ports or ventilation. Trim a little at a time until it fits comfortably.
There is no universal tablet-insert size. Fit the template to your own case rather than copying the dimensions of the example. If the case is too tight to accommodate paper, choose a different case instead of forcing it closed.
Print the background and decorative pieces at a size that works with your template. An inexpensive draft print is useful for checking scale before using your preferred paper. Let the ink dry before handling.
Place your template over the shop background and lightly mark the finished outline and camera opening on the reverse. Keep the focal image and your favourite details inside that outline. Leave enough room around the edges for the case rim.
I like to arrange everything before reaching for the glue. It saves discovering that the camera has claimed the best potion bottle.
Cut around the outside of the Viola scene. Keep the little companions and decorative details that belong to your chosen focal piece together wherever practical. You do not have to cut every tiny gap to make the scene look lovely.
Set it on the shop background and try the placement against your template. Check that Viola’s face and hat will remain visible once the case is fitted.
This is the starting point I used: I pasted the focal image onto the background page of the shop from the set we made for the projects.
Apply a thin, even layer of paper adhesive to the back of the focal piece, paying attention to the edges. Position it on the background and smooth it gently. Too much wet glue can curl the paper, so use only what your adhesive needs.
Next, I used the plants-and-bottles page to fill it in. Cut out a selection of the coordinating pieces and arrange them around the focal scene before gluing.
Try taller plants beside the scene and smaller bottles along the bottom. A little overlap helps the separate pieces feel like one busy potion pantry. Keep Viola visible and check the camera opening again before fixing anything down.
Glue the pieces directly to the background. The overlapping artwork gives the impression of depth without adding bulky spacers. Stop when the scene feels balanced; you can save the remaining pieces for a card or journal page.
Allow the adhesive to dry completely before placing the insert against your tablet. Keep the collage flat while it dries, following the adhesive’s directions.
Use the tested template to trim the outside edge and camera opening. Cut conservatively, then check the fit in the empty case. Make small adjustments until the paper lies flat, with no folded corners or loose edges.
Place the finished artwork inside the clear back with the picture facing outward. Refit the tablet according to the case instructions and check that the case seats normally all the way around.
Leave the camera, buttons, ports and ventilation clear. Do not glue the insert to the tablet. If the extra paper makes the case difficult to fit, remove it and reduce the thickness rather than applying pressure.
And there she is, with a shop full of bottles and greenery, ready to supervise my reading. When I fancy a different look, I can take the insert out and change it.
Use the same approach with your favourite colours and a different arrangement of the coordinating pieces. The useful part is the order: fit the template first, plan the scene, glue it flat, then trim and test.
Explore Viola’s Potion Pantry colouring book in my Etsy shop for more cosy witchy colouring. The colouring-book listing is for the colouring pages. Download the free companion background and cutout sheet above; this project is trimmed to your own case rather than supplied as a universal pre-sized insert. Check the listing contents before buying.
Looking for another way to take your colouring off the page? Our Best Ghoulfriends waterslide canvas tutorial is available now, with autumn foliage and silver cobwebs.
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Save your favourite version for your next creative afternoon.



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There is no rule that says a colouring page has to stay tucked inside a book. Sometimes your ghosts deserve to get dressed up, take their pumpkin drinks outside, and become part of the Halloween decorating.
For this project, I took the three friends from Best Ghoulfriends and turned them into an 11 × 14-inch canvas, surrounded by red and orange autumn foliage and a raised silver cobweb border. A big bowl of candy nearby feels entirely appropriate. They do look like the sort of girls who would insist on checking the treats.
The important part of this project is the paper: we used waterslide decal paper for both the coloured focal image and the four foliage sections. This is a waterslide project, rather than paper decoupage.
I print everyday artwork with an Epson EcoTank ET-2800 using ordinary inkjet ink.
Follow the instructions for your particular waterslide paper and clear coat. The timing between coats, soaking time and drying time need to come from those products.
Place the printed colouring page over a plain backing sheet and secure the sheets together with small pieces of painter’s tape. Trim away the excess paper, then cut carefully around the outside of the whole scene.
Keep the ghosts, table, cat and pumpkins together as one focal piece. There is no need to cut every little space between the table legs.
Separate the two sheets after cutting. The plain silhouette is worth keeping: it matches the focal image and lets you plan the placement without repeatedly handling your coloured decal. It can also serve as a mask if you add painted details around the image later.
Colour the printed focal image with alcohol markers. I used green for the reading ghost’s bow and book, pink and purple for the middle bow, and grey and black for the bow on the right. Orange pumpkins, autumn leaves and a warm brown table bring the scene together.
Leave the ghost bodies white. Their bright shapes are what help them stand out against all that autumn colour.
The focal image stays at the size printed from the colouring page. It does not need to fill the canvas; the space around it gives the woodland background room to show.
We sealed the printed waterslides with four layers of our Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch 2X clear gloss before putting them in water.
That includes the coloured ghost image and the printed foliage sections. Allow the marker colouring to dry first, then apply the clear coat according to its label, observing the required intervals and drying time before soaking.
This is a step to take slowly. Coverage needs to be even, and the printed areas need protection before they meet the water. Four layers describe what we used for this project; check that your own paper and sealer are compatible, and try a spare printed scrap first.
Spray in a suitable well-ventilated area, following the can’s safety directions.
Paint the canvas with a fall-colour base, keeping the centre lighter and working warmer, deeper colours around the outside.
The lighter centre gives the ghosts a place to sit without disappearing into the red and orange foliage. Think of it as a little clearing in the autumn woods.
Let the paint dry fully. The receiving surface also needs to be smooth and sealed enough for the waterslide to move into place; an absorbent or heavily textured surface makes positioning much harder. Prepare and dry that surface according to the products you are using.
Before soaking anything, arrange the four foliage pieces on the canvas with their paper backing still attached. Check the orientation and where the branches, tree trunks and foliage meet.
I drew light registration marks in the centre of my canvas to help line up the four sections.
Keep those marks faint and check that the artwork will hide them, especially if you are using transparent waterslide paper. A straight-on photograph of the dry arrangement is useful, too.
Use the plain ghost silhouette to check the focal placement. Make sure there is room for the silver border around the outside.
This is the part that needs the most care.
The foliage is made from four separate waterslide sections. Their edges need to meet neatly: touching, but not overlapping.
An overlap can produce a darker line or a doubled piece of artwork. A gap can leave the painted canvas visible between the sections. Take time to match the actual branches and foliage as well as the outside edges.
Work with one section at a time:
Continue with the remaining pieces. Keep checking that each join meets cleanly before moving on. Avoid pulling at one corner to force a match; that can distort the image.
Let the background dry as directed before applying the focal image.
Return to the position you planned with the plain silhouette.
If your focal image is on clear waterslide paper, unprinted white areas will be transparent. Make sure the area beneath the ghosts is white if you want white bodies; a merely lighter centre will still show through. White waterslide paper provides its own opaque white base.
Soak the sealed focal decal according to its instructions and slide it into position, keeping the backing beneath it for support as you work. Take particular care around the bows, leaves and pumpkin edges.
Gently ease out trapped water and air. The aim is for the whole image to lie flat, with no curled edges or folds. Allow it to dry thoroughly before adding the border.
Use silver glue sticks to create a raised cobweb border roughly one inch wide around all four sides of the canvas.
Keep it beginner friendly. Start with a simple fan-shaped web in each corner: a few spokes, joined with two or three curved lines. Then connect the corners with smaller repeating web sections along the edges.
You do not need tiny, intricate webs. Open shapes are easier to make and let the autumn colours show through.
Practise a few lines on a suitable heat-resistant scrap surface first. Work in short sections and keep the hot nozzle away from the decal surface. A slightly thicker join, a wobbly curve or a little glue blob is part of the handmade finish. We are decorating with cobwebs, after all. The spiders did not bring rulers.
Let the glue cool completely before moving the canvas.
Hang the finished canvas near your Halloween treats, with a generous bowl of wrapped candy underneath.
I like it with a pumpkin and those wispy cobweb decorations that come bundled in a bag and stretch out between corners. Keep the stretched webbing around the display rather than across the ghost faces—you have done all that colouring, so let it show.
And there they are: three friends who have escaped the colouring book and found themselves a place in the Halloween decorating.
You can find Best Ghoulfriends in my printable shop:
Get the Best Ghoulfriends colouring book on Etsy
Use the colouring artwork as the starting point, then make the colours and finishing details your own. The four-section foliage background is a free companion download linked above; the ghost colouring artwork comes from the Best Ghoulfriends book.
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Save a reminder of this project for your next creative afternoon.



This post contains Amazon affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you. Links to materials are shopping options; check the size and printer compatibility before ordering.
Have you ever downloaded a gorgeous printable collection, printed a few pages, and wondered what else you could make? At My Grandma's Teacups, I love finding unexpected ways to transform digital artwork into something beautiful and useful. Today I'm opening my craft-room cupboards and sharing the supplies and techniques behind our upcoming projects.
I use an Epson EcoTank ET-2800 for everyday printable artwork. Its refillable ink tanks are especially helpful when printing colourful stickers, journal pages and patterned papers regularly. I spotted one for about CAD $175 during a summer sale, but prices change, so compare current offers and the total cost of ink.
You can do plenty with scissors and a craft knife, but a Cricut Maker makes detailed stickers, labels, paper embellishments and stencil pieces much easier to repeat. Print Then Cut is particularly handy for the little potion bottles and decorative pieces we're creating for Viola's miniature shop.
Use inkjet-compatible printable sticker paper for planner stickers, decorative labels, gift seals and journal embellishments. Match the paper finish to the project and use your printer's recommended settings. For Cricut Print Then Cut, keep registration marks unobstructed and perform a small test cut.
A clear holographic adhesive overlay gives ordinary stickers a shimmering finish. Apply it smoothly after printing and drying, then cut through the combined layers using a tested material setting. We're exploring this finish for our own collection artwork.
Waterslide decal paper lets you apply designs to suitable prepared objects. It's one of the techniques behind our Viola's Potion Pantry cabinet: we're turning a real, upcycled wooden jewellery cabinet into a miniature apothecary with stained-glass-inspired window decals, signs and dimensional illustrations.
We'll also use our Dark Fantasy foliage artwork on decorative candle vessels and a Best Ghoulfriends illustration on an autumn mixed-media canvas. Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch 2X clear gloss is the clear coat we used on our waterslide projects. For the ghost canvas, we applied four layers before soaking, following the product’s drying directions. Decorated candles must remain unlit if the decal or finish could be exposed to heat or flame.
Clear Grafix clear craft plastic sheets and compatible clear printable sticker paper are wonderful for journal windows, layered artwork and pressed-flower-inspired embellishments. We'll create a delicate botanical accent inspired by our Blue Hydrangea collection. You can also reuse clean, flat transparent packaging for some journal projects.
Our sticker-sheet illustrations can become miniature charms when printed on printer-compatible shrink plastic. Cut out the designs, punch hanging holes before heating, and follow the shrink-plastic manufacturer's heating directions. Then add jump rings and tassels for a coordinated charm accessory.
I keep a second ET-2800 dedicated to sublimation ink, separate from my ordinary printing printer. Sublimation requires Hiipoo sublimation ink, A-SUB sublimation paper, heat equipment and a sublimation-compatible sticker blank. Our playful “Dragons Don't Do Pumpkin Spice” design is one of the ideas we're experimenting with for compatible sublimation stickers.
Important: the ET-2800 is not sold by Epson as a sublimation printer. Converting one is an unofficial modification and may affect warranty coverage; do not put sublimation ink into a printer you still need for ordinary inkjet projects.
A laminator makes printed bookmarks more durable; add a tassel for a gift-ready finish. Printable vellum softens designs into romantic translucent layers, while narrow strips cut from adhesive printed patterns can become coordinated washi-style decorations. Always use printer-compatible media and test unfamiliar settings first.
Here is the purple potion-pantry inspiration we have been creating with our Viola artwork. The images show the project idea; the cabinet, supplies and finished project are not included with the digital files.



Download your free Viola companion project files here. The eight-page PDF includes printing notes, stained-glass-inspired windows, the shop background, jars and plants, and decorative signs. Colouring pages and the character focal artwork are separate.
Explore Viola’s Potion Pantry colouring book on Etsy, or try the removable tablet-case insert tutorial for a smaller project.
Bookmark this page: I will update this list with each tutorial as it becomes available. Projects marked Coming soon are still on their way.
You don't need to buy every machine or material at once. Start with a printer, scissors, paper and artwork you love; add specialty materials as your confidence grows. Keep an untouched backup of your original downloads, and check licence terms before selling physical items made from digital files.
I'll be sharing individual tutorials with the real materials, measurements, process photographs and lessons learned. In the meantime, explore our collections at My Grandma's Teacups on Etsy.
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I love seeing what happens when one of our colouring pages finds its way onto someone else’s craft table. Today I have a lovely project to share from design team member Elizabeth Hart: a Scottish thistle card filled with purple blooms, tartan details and a little sparkle.
Elizabeth shared this card on her blog, Warm Harted — A Scottish Thistle. Do pop over to see her original post and leave her a little love!
The thistles sit inside an illustrated embroidery hoop, surrounded by Celtic knotwork and tartan ribbon. Elizabeth’s soft pink background gives the deeper purple flowers and green leaves room to stand out, while the black mat and plum-coloured card base frame the whole piece.
My favourite finishing touch is the little purple floral sprig tied with a lavender bow. It brings the flowers forward from the page and gives the card that lovely, tactile quality you only get with handmade things.
In her original post, Elizabeth explains that she used watercolour and Copic markers for the colouring, then Distress Oxide inks with a water reaction to create a more vintage look. Flowers, ribbon and glitter complete the card.
It is such a useful idea to tuck away for your own crafting: choose a detail from the printed design and echo it with a real embellishment. A ribbon, a small flower or a touch of sparkle can help a coloured page feel like a finished keepsake.
Elizabeth identifies her image as coming from the Scottish Highlands Coloring Book, Level 2. The thistles, tartan and Celtic details carry the same atmosphere through the wider collection, making it a lovely place to look for coordinating paper-crafting inspiration.
Explore the Scottish Highlands collection in our Etsy shop. Please check each listing’s contents before purchasing so you choose the files you want. The shop offers digital downloads; Elizabeth’s finished card and added embellishments are her own creation.
If this has inspired you to look at your colouring pages a little differently, try pairing a finished image with a contrasting cardstock mat and one small embellishment. You can make it your own without needing to design a card from scratch.
A very warm thank-you to Elizabeth for sharing her beautiful work with us. Visit her Scottish thistle post here for her creative details.
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What would you turn a colouring page into—a card, a journal cover or a little framed gift? I would love to hear your ideas.
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